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Tobias, schipper op zeiljachten in Griekenland.
ZZ StoriesSaronic Gulf, Greece

Tobias, skipper on sailing yachts in Greece.

Tobias · six weeks of sailing in Greece

For years, Tobias worked as a skipper on sailing yachts in Greece. This summer he went back, for the last time as a skipper. Six weeks, from island to island, one of them with his friends on board. We asked him about that week: the crew, the route and what he's taking home with him.

Barbecue on board, at anchor off a rocky coast

Why there, of all places?

“I spent years sailing there as a skipper. This was my last season, and for one week, for the first time, I did it for myself too: with my friends on board, as a holiday. For me, there's no better holiday.”

Friends on the deck of the sailing boat, with the Greek flag in the wind

With his friends on board.

What's a typical day like?

“Wonderfully simple. You wake up on the boat, pull on your swim shorts and jump straight into the water. Then you weigh anchor and sail under the Greek sun. At lunchtime you eat on board, or at a little place in the harbour of one of the islands.”

Water first. Then the day.

What made this trip different?

“For the first time, I went with my friends from the Netherlands. Most of them had never sailed like this before, and they'd never seen me in my role as skipper either. Now I was their skipper. That made it extra special to share this with them.”

Seven friends laughing on a rock against a clear blue sky

The crew.

What didn't you expect?

“That this time I'd actually be on holiday myself. As a skipper, your week revolves around your guests. You look after everyone and think of everything.

With my friends I obviously still had to keep a weather eye open, because half of them are a bunch of idiots and the other half had never set foot on a sailing boat. Even so, this time I finally got to enjoy places I'd been to hundreds of times.”

The boat at anchor in Greece

At anchor.

Island to island

“I know someone at every stop. This was our route that week, and the people we met along the way.

Skipper Tobias with his nautical chart on board

Tobias showing his friends where they'll be sailing. Complete with a “real” captain's cap.

Athens. The boat was waiting for us in the marina at Alimos. We dropped anchor just around the corner, and I took my friends to the beach in the dinghy for a few cold beers. In the evening we ate at Nikos's place, Edem. Nikos is a legend among skippers: anyone who charters a boat in Athens eats with him. He even pulled up a chair and joined us for a while.

The crew at a long table at Edem on the first evening

The first evening, with Nikos at Edem.

Aegina. Early the next morning we cast off for Aegina: the pistachio island and the first capital of modern Greece. That's where Max and Eva joined us on board.

Friends swimming in clear blue water next to the boat

Three friends at a table at Babis restaurant on Aegina, by the water at sunset

Round the table at Babis, on Aegina.

Methana. Vathi was perhaps the most beautiful spot of the whole week: a gorgeous bay with just one restaurant, a real Mamma Mia bay.

Vathi, the Mamma Mia bay.

From Vathi we walked up to the volcano.

The crew climbing a rocky path to the volcano on Methana

On the way to the volcano.

Sailing to the next island

On to the next island.

Poros. My friend Jason was waiting for us there, with his water sports centre at Askeli. We went wakeboarding, tubing and jet-skiing with him.

Wakeboarding behind the boat at Askeli on Poros

Wakeboarding with Jason.

For good food, go to Nikos and Natasja at Poseidon, on the harbour. It's where my bosses got married.

After that we headed out again, to the Malibu Bar. Partied with Alex until morning. And the best thing about Poros? The view from the clock tower at the top of the hill. From there you can see the Sleeping Lady stretched out along the mountaintops.

At the clock tower.

Agistri. Close to the harbour at Megalochori is Kastro Club. There was a Greek night on the programme. Nobody had brought a toga, so everyone grabbed the sheet from their own bunk. Moments later we were standing there like a bunch of Greek gods, wrapped in our sheets.

The crew as Greek gods, with sheets for togas

Share a boat for a week and you share everything. Even your sheet.”

All the places in this story are in the Hotspots guide.

What made the biggest impression?

“Every place was more beautiful than the last. But in the end, for me it's all about Greece itself. As far as I'm concerned, it's the most beautiful holiday destination in Europe, especially from a sailing boat. Nowhere else will you find islands this unspoilt.

And then there are the Greeks. They often don't have much money, but they live well, they're content and they'll always help you out. That simple but vibrant way of life, with everything a warm southern European country has to offer: for me, that's the ultimate way to enjoy life.”

What are you taking home with you?

“A place where I feel at home, and where I think I always will. Where the people know and respect me, and the other way round.”

Tobias in his element.

And in one word?

“Special. Because it probably won't all come together like that very often again: my friends, a boat and the country where I feel at home.”

Two friends laughing on deck at sunset in the harbour

The sun going down.


Tobias wore The Signature Shorts in Navy Blue.

BE IMMERSED.

ZZ Hotspots

Hotspots from Tobias. Where you need to be.

Places from this trip that are worth the detour. Directions included.

Aegina, Greece

Babis

Fish restaurant on the beach in Aegina Town, a few minutes' walk from the harbour. Tables by the water and sunset views.

Athens, Greece

Edem

Family restaurant dating from 1919, right on the beach at Palaio Faliro. Greek meze, fresh fish and seafood with sea views.

Agistri, Greece

Kastro Club

Bar and club above the sea by the harbour in Megalochori, with views across the Saronic Gulf. DJs and Greek music nights in summer.

Poros, Greece

Malibu Bar

Bar on the coast road in Poros Town and an institution for over forty years. Cocktails outside by the water, dancing to DJ sets inside.

Poros, Greece

Poseidon

Fish restaurant on the waterfront in Poros Town, serving fish from its own boats, with views of the Sleeping Lady and the sunset.

Methana, Greece

Vathi

Small fishing village on a sheltered bay on the west coast of Methana, with fresh fish on the quayside. The volcano is close by.

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